“God is My All-in-All”

The Baptism

On the Fifth Sunday of Easter, 2 May, Djeumessi Michael Romeo — or Mickey — was baptized at the Evangelical-Lutheran Church in Cluj.  Mickey is a citizen of Cameroon, who studies Computer Science at Babes-Bolyai University.  He has been coming to church faithfully for several months, after being invited by another Cameroonian classmate.

Supper After Worship, at Pizzeria Rex

I spent several weeks preparing Mickey for baptism, largely by studying Luther’s Small Catechism together.  At our first meeting, I asked him who, based on his own experience, he thought God was.  His answer was simple:  ”God is my all-in-all.”  The words rolled around in my head for a while, but only after we had chosen a date for his baptism did I see the second lesson for that Sunday:  ”I am the Alpha and the Omega, the beginning and the end.”  In other words, the all-in-all.

It’s funny how these things work out.

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“U” Sunt Noi!

Back Row From Left: Adriana, Marcha, Pr. Terri, Matthew, Mickey. Rob is in the foreground.

After worship yesterday, a group from church went to the basketball game — a quarterfinal playoff between Targu-Mures and U-Mobitelco (one of the two Cluj teams).  One of the players for U is an American named Rob Thomson, who frequently worships with us.

It was a good game.  Our side won, although it was close.  Pastor Terri assures me that Rob won the game single-handed.  I wasn’t there and can’t say, but I do know from a previous outing that the guy is a master of the foul shot.

But here’s the real point to this post, especially alongside the one before it:  a reminder that “church” isn’t just a synonym for worship, or charity, or ethics.  It is life together in community, connected by our baptism not only to God but also to each other.

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Gratia Artis

A few hours before worship yesterday, a few of us paid a visit to the Cluj Museum of Art.  (It is, after all, only around the corner from our church!)

If you haven’t been there yet, it is worth a look.  The museum isn’t large, and might benefit from the help of a restoration team, but it has a good collection of pictures that you may not see anywhere else, including a few special beauties.

The current exhibit features a number of contemporary artists, working in a variety of media, including video.  ”It’s like P.S. 1 in Queens,” Pastor Terri exclaimed happily.  At which point I coughed loudly, since my own taste in art is a bit different.  I have been known to suggest that perpsective destroyed painting much the way polyphony killed music.

To my delight, however, the permanent collection includes some remarkable late-medieval icons, in excellent condition.  One in particular — a small Nativity — makes an especially provocative use of color.  There is also a Latin-style altar, with a nicely carved and polychromed Virgin and child.

The museum holds many paintings by Transylvanian artists from the 19th and 20th centuries.  There is a lot of Impressionism, but I was most taken by two more traditional portraits.  One, by an artist whose name escapes me, was in the style of John Singer Sargent, including a beautiful young woman and a splash of teal in the background.  The other was a small and exceptionally meticulous painting of some 19th-century matron, or perhaps a widow, by an artist of whom I had never heard — the unfortunately named Barabás Miklós.  It’s a little jewel, which reminded me of nothing so much as Ingres.  Which is high praise indeed.

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Hristos a înviat

Before the Easter Vigil: the Orthodox Cathedral, Cluj.

In the United States, the Great Vigil of Easter is celebrated faithfully, at least in the churches Terri and I have served.  Our Vigils are by turns solemn, prayerful and joyous.  They are also elaborate and often very beautiful.

But, to be honest, they are not well-attended.  Many churches do not celebrate it at all, and even among those that do, the Vigil is often a small thing, especially compared to the services of the following day. People know the service, but do not always love it.

Don’t ask me why.  The Great Vigil is among my very favorite services of the Christian year.  And why wouldn’t it be?  We gather in darkness, like the women at the tomb, and we hear the story of God’s work in the world, reaching its climax in the good news of the Resurrection, that astonishing victory over death which is the foundation of the Christian faith.  New Christians are washed in the water of new life.  Worship is rarely more moving, more Biblical, or more tightly focused upon Jesus.

The English Ministry did not hold a Vigil this year.  There aren’t many of us to begin with, and many, even most, were going to be out of town.  Instead, I slipped out of the house to see what our neighbors were up to.  I found quite a crowd milling outside the Orthodox cathedral — by  midnight, it was probably a thousand people.  Hundreds more streamed by me onto the sidewalk, as the organ postlude played at St. Michael’s.

But the most gripping moment, for me, was at the Greek Catholic cathedral on Eroilor.  I had dropped in earlier, and seen the church packed to the rafters, as people stood in the dark, chanting.  I left, and happened to pass by again later in the night, as the doors of the church burst open, and a procession came pouring out.  (That’s what’s happening in the comically wretched photograph posted here).

Easter Vigil at the Greek Catholic Cathedral, Cluj

The crowd — perhaps 300 people? — gathered around a cluster of priests and seminarians.  The story of the Resurrection was sung.  Then the bishop chanted a series of prayers, each with the bold refrain, Hristos a înviat din morti.  Even someone with my limited Romanian could recognize the words.  Surrextit Christus.  Christ is risen.

The people gathered there were old and young, even small children in their parents’ arms.  Their faces were aglow not just with candlelight but with joy, as they listened to the story and let it touch their hearts.  Then, slowly, they turned, and began their procession around the outside of the church — as if the story of the Resurrection had sentthem outward, together, to lighten the darkness of midnight.

This is clearly not a place where the Great Vigil has been forgotten.  On the contrary, this is a place where the Vigil is loved, as it should be loved.  It is celebrated with joy in many churches and in different languages.  Next year, if God is kind, we will celebrate it in English as well.  Whether there are many of us, or just a few, we will light our candles, too, and join our voices to those of the whole Christian world, as we announce the victory of life over death.

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Also Rocking: Sighisoara

Sighisoara - The Church on the Hill, Viewed from the Clock Tower

The family is just back from an overnight in Sighisoara — our first recreational excursion since we arrived in Romania, more than seven months ago.  It was a good choice.

A lot of readers probably know the town already, so I won’t describe it in any detail.  For those who don’t, just trust me when I say that there is a good reason it is on the UNESCO list of world cultural treasures, or something like that.  Basically, the hilltop citadel is a beautifully preserved (and restored) medieval-t0-Renaissance town, with some gorgeous architecture, dominated by a colossal clock-tower and several striking churches.

Of course, Vlad the Impaler was born there, so the town is also full of vampire tsostskes, which you either like or you don’t like.  I don’t especially like it, but I also know that people need to earn a living.

But here’s something that you should know, if you are planning to visit with a baby or a toddler.  It’s obvious to anybody who has seen the place, but may not be clear to tourists who are searching the Web for information, so I mention it here as a public service:  DON’T BRING YOUR STROLLER (OR PERAMBULATOR) TO SIGHISOARA.  It will be considerably worse than useless — a dead weight to be hauled up the stone stairways, and which does you no good at all once there.  Probably won’t make you any friends on the train, either.

If your child needs to be carried, use a sling, backpack or front-pack carrier.  It will save your back, and your self-respect.

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Holy Week Pageant in Cluj

Holy Week procession Cluj 2010

Holy Week Procession Cluj 2010 Crucifixion

Holy Week Procession Cluj 2010 Crucifixion

On the Tuesday of Holy Week, we joined a procession through the streets of Cluj.  While it wasn’t exactly the traditional Stations of the Cross, it was a similar idea.  Actors playing Jesus, Pilate, the Roman soldiers and the Jerusalem mob re-enacted the Passion.

They led us from St. Michael’s to the National Theatre, stopping every few blocks for to administer a beating and read what I hope were some verses of Scripture.

To be honest, it was a little strange.  I’m used to the Stations as a fairly somber devotional service, a series of readings, hymns and prayers punctuated by some shuffling form place to place.  This was more theatrical, with actors hamming it up and fake blood applied in generous quantities.  It felt less like a worship service than a parade.

Still, I found it curiously moving, and I suspect other people did as well.  It’s hard not to.

Perhaps this is what the medieval mystery plays were like:  devotion and spectacle, never in precisely equal parts.

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Come and Warm Up

I mean, no, it isn’t Scandinavia.  But this has been, by all reports, an unusually cold winter for Cluj.  And then came that great week or two — you remember, don’t you? — when the clouds blew off, the sun came pouring out, the little snow-drop flowers came peeking through the dirt and one or two trees even started to bud.  Spring wasn’t here, exactly, but we could feel it coming.

Then this.  Brrr.

But here’s a happy thought:  the Lutheran church uses those big, old-fashioned gas-powered ceramic radiators.  They’re not especially safe or energy-efficient, but they are incredibly warm, especially if you are sitting with your back to them.  So coffee hour after service (or Bible study come Wednesday) can be counted on to be cozy.  And we always have plenty of fruit tea!

An International Community

 

Radiator in the Background, Pastor Terri in the Foreground

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Bible Study for Lent

Does your life seem scattered in different directions?  Do you ever wonder what you are doing — in life, or even in the world?  God has a word for you!

Our English-language Bible Study for the season of Lent is called “Finding the Center.”  It will focus on living a holy life in the real world, and learning to balance day-to-day responsibilities with living a God-pleasing life.

We will meet on Wednesday nights at 7pm, in the sacristy of the Lutheran Church, at 21 D-dul Decembrie 1989, No. 1, in Cluj.  The study will last from February 17 until March 31 — Ash Wednesday until Holy Week.  Please come for one session or for all of them!

For more information, just leave a comment here.

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And Speaking of the Centru …

Here’s a plug for the place where I drank my coffee today:  Atmosfera, on the south side of B-dul 21 Decembrie, not far from Hubertus restaurant.  I patronize a pretty fair number of coffee shops, and this is among my very favorites.  It’s attractively decorated, the service is fast, and the coffee is reliably excellent.

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Centru Rocks!

This morning, I dropped my son off at school, had my hair cut, and some pants altered, dropped my shoes off to be repaired and had snappy new advertising placards printed.  (Look for them on the church door!) In between those errands, I drank a first-rate cappuccino, and bought a collection of essays at a used-book store.  The prices were reasonable, the quality was excellent, and none of it took me more than a few blocks from the Piata Unirii.

Well, fine — I can hear a few readers saying – but it would have been just as easy to do the same things at one of the big malls.  Wouldn’t it?

Actually, I’m not so sure.  I like Polus and Iulius as much as the next guy, but don’t remember seeing a shoe-repair shop at either one.  There are some stalls where people sell used books, but the selection is tiny compared to any of central Cluj’s cluttered anticariati.  And if I had wanted a watch repaired, a French waffle on the sidewalk, or a quick museum visit, I could have done those things in the centru this morning, just as easily as anything else.  But not at a mall.

Look, I’m not knocking the big shopping centers.  But I am a little worried that their presence distracts people from the ease of shopping in downtown Cluj.  There is plenty of parking in town, especially if you don’t mind paying a few lei.  A lot of the shops are the same, and the bookstores — new or used — are far better in town than out.  Not to mention the food, coffee and night-life.

So if you’re getting in the car (or calling a taxi) and planning a trip to the edge of town, consider a change of plans.  The center will pay you back.

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